Monday's Motivation

 “OUTSIDE!”  Every surfer caught on the inside of a BIG wave

When hearing this in the lineup, everyone becomes VERY alert!!!

Monday's Motivation - Lee Rosen

“Surfing will ruin your life.  You won't want to do anything else.”  Lee Rosen

Monday's Motivation - Lt Col William Kill

“Charlie don't surf.”  Lt Col William Kil

Monday's Motivation - Patrick Swayze

“Fear causes hesitation, and hesitation will cause your worst fears to come true.”  Patrick Swayze

So..GO FOR IT in the lineup.  The hold down will only be for a little while...

Monday's Motivation - Patrick Swayze

“Surfing's the source.  Can change your life.  Swear to god.” Patrick Swayze

Monday's Motivation - Captain James Cook

 “I could not help concluding this man had the most supreme pleasure while he was driven so fast and so smoothly by the sea.”  Captain James Cook

Monday's Motivation

 “if it swells, ride it!” Unknown author

Monday's Motivation - Jolene Blalock

“Surfing is such an amazing concept.  You're taking on Nature with a little stick and saying, 'I'm gonna ride you!'  And a lot of times Nature says, 'No you're not!' and crashes you to the bottom.  Jolene Blalock 

Monday's Motivation - Matt Warshaw

“Surfing, alone among sports, generates laughter at its very suggestion, and this is because it turns not a skill into an art, but an inexplicable and useless urge into a vital way of life.”  Matt Warshaw

Monday's Motivation - Mark Thornley

“There's nothing quite like surfing by yourself in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, but unpredictable weather patterns, below deck accommodations, sea snakes, coral cuts and packs of reef sharks make it a trip for the committed seadog.”  Mark Thornley

Monday's Motivation - Hansie Cronje

“I love surfing more than cricket.  It's more interesting and you meet great people.”  Hansie Cronje

Monday's Motivation

“There is nothing, nothing, more sad than a surfer who used to surf.”  Unknown author

I plan to SURF until the day I die!!!!

Monday's Motivation - John McCarthy

“Surfing is the most blissful experience you can have on this planet, a taste of heaven.”  John McCarthy

Monday's Motivation - Ziggy Marley

“I've tried body surfing, Its nice.”  Ziggy Marley

Monday's Motivation - Naima Green

“One of the greatest things about the sport of surfing is that you need only three things:  your body, a surfboard, and a wave.” Naima Green

Monday's Motivation - Paul Walker

“Surfing soothes me, it's always been a kind of Zen experience for me.  The ocean is so magnificent, peaceful, and awesome.  The rest of the world disappears for me when I'm on a wave.” Paul Walker

Monday's Motivation - Kary Mullis

“Sometimes in the morning when it's good surf, I go out there, and I don't feel like it's a bad world.”  Kary Mullis

Monday's Motivation - Roger Sharp

“One drop in is an accident, two is rude, three is a twatable offence.”  Roger Sharp

Monday's Motivation - John Kabat-Zinn

 “You can't stop the waves, but you can learn to surf.”  John Kabat-Zinn

Monday's Motivation - Clay Marzo

 “If there was no such thing as barrels I probably wouldn't even surf.  Clay Marzo

Monday's Motivation - Bruce Jenkins

“Surfing is for life.”  Bruce Jenkins

Monday's Motivation - Paul Strauch

“Surfing is vey much like making love.  It always feels good, no matter how many times you've done it.”  Paul Strauch

Monday's Motivation - Buzzy Trent

“Waves are not measured in feet and inches, they are measured in increments of fear.”  Buzzy Trent

Monday's Motivation - Andy Irons

 “I try changing my surfing, which is the absolute worst thing you can do.  Everyone surfs their own way.  If I try to surf like someone else I look like a dork.”  Andy Irons 

Monday's Motivation

“I've committed to surfing the rest of my life.” Lance Armstrong

Monday's Motivation

“Eddie would go.”  Mark Foo

JAX Surfing

What does it take to keep me happy?  The short answer is…staying close to the coast!

This week(end) we are located in Jacksonville, Florida.  The plan was only to spend a few days here, but the rain and weather made us readjust our travel plans and spend the weekend…and it's a good thing we did.

Surfing is a lifestyle and it has a lot to do with "family".  Our stay in JAX allowed us to meet up with some old friends -- the Thayers.  We have known these people since the late 1980s…from our time in the Azores.  

In addition to getting to see "family", I also found a little time to paddle out.  Even though the rain was continual on Friday, there was a little break in downpour and I finally looked at the SurfGuru to see what the current conditions were on the webcam.  It looked GOOD, so I headed to the Mayport Poles surf spot for a look see.  

It's was good enough for me to slip on the spring suit and paddle out just as another "old guys rule" kind of surfer was coming it.  He gladly pointed me to the right spot that it was breaking and I was very grateful since I not a local around here.  

The wave at Mayport Poles is a little interesting.  Even though it's a beach break, it pops up quickly once it gets closer to shore.  Normally, I like to have a little time to see the wave growing so that I can swing my longboard around and start paddle…no time for this at this break.

One of the best things about the Mayport Poles surf spot is that the POLES are a barrier from the locals since the north side is on Mayport NAS.  This keeps the locals (somewhat) at bay from crossing the barrier.  Since Mayport NAS boarders Hanna Park, the locals get plenty of waves on the south side of the poles…leaving the lineup pretty empty on the base side which is good for kooks like me.  

However, some of the locals ride right past the poles and I almost had a run in with one of them short boards on Friday.  Since he was south of the poles, I assumed he'd head left leaving the right open for me.  I paddled in and didn't even look left until I was up…and there he was.  You could tell he was upset, but life goes on and I apologized (just like a kook should)!

Also, this weekend is the Wavemasters Surf Comp at the Jax Beach Pier.  I didn't head down since it was raining, but I did watch online (now that I have internet again).

On a side note:  I wish I had been a surfer when I was in the Azores.  While a little cold in the water temp, the swells do come!  Check out this -- http://www.surf-forecast.com/breaks/Praia-Vitoria

Monday's Motivation

 “It's not tragic to die doing something you love.”  Mark Foo

Monday's Motivation

 “If in doubt, paddle out.”  Nat Young

That's easy to say when you're a world class surfer, but sometimes I need to stay on the shore (and live for another paddle out session)!

Monday's Motivation

“If you're having a bad day, catch a wave.”  Frosty Hesson

Wednesday's Waves

The next 7 days doesn't look too good :( good thing I went over the last weekend!

Monday's Motivation

“I surf to get tan.”  Shane Dorian

Monday's Motivation

“It's a culmination of your life of surfing when you turn and paddle in at Mavericks.”  Jeff Clark

Lotsa Beach People

When the weather is nice in in the winter, it means that people flock to the beach.  While the rest of the US is still dealing with snow, ice and COLD, life in Florida is NICE....

On a recent weekend beach trip, the beach was flooded with people as far as the eye could see.  Normally, the Patrick AFB beach is NOT this busy...but they were just like us, enjoying the sun and  sand!

Wednesday's Waves

The temperature has changed on this Wednesday and it's a little cooler than normal (highs in the upper 60s, but it got into the 40s last night).  

The wind has become a force to reckon with especially since it's off shore at 20mph!  With a longboard, it's touch getting that thing paddled into and keeping the nose low without pearling.

However, I made a go of it on Tuesday and it was OK…really is any day in the surf OK (I think NOT…it's always GREAT)!  

However, the winds will continue to be strong for throughout the week and make it difficult to paddle out.

The surf yesterday looked great…but the forecast didn't match up with actual (as usual).

Surf Vid...

Take a look at this recent surf video on SurfersVillageTV

Surfing Europe - Where is Sancho - French Chaos

Monday's Motivation

“I took off on a wave, went down the side, popped out the other end, and went, shit, I'm still alive!”  Greg Noll 

While the waves I surf are not as BIG as the ones Greg Noll surfed, there are times when I say the same thing!

Keepin' It Beautiful

When you are living the life as a Surf Bum, you have to find ways to "save money"!  So that

I had a great looking haircut (hadn't had one in about 8 weeks...so it was growing BIG)!  But I needed to get back to the short cut.  So...hear I am making the best of making myself look good!!!!

Wednesday's Waves

Next week swell predictions.  Too bad I'm in Key West where the swell is FLAT (as always)...

Surfing Video - Body soul

Some great views of waves from a different angle.

Check out: Body soul

Monday's Motivation

“I'm just a surfer who wanted to build something that would allow me to surf longer.”  Jack O'Neill

New Wax Job

Yeah, yeah...I know what you are thinking.  I'm talking WAY TOO MUCH about wax!  And I would definitely agree, but since Bettina gave me such a hard time about the last wax job, I decided to change it up.

So....after all of that wax was removed, I changed it up with a new design.  I've done this in the past so I thought I'd give it another chance.  It's a crosshatch design that leaves ALOT of space without wax.  And everyone knows that a surfboard without wax is VERY slick!!!!  But, Bettina said I had too much wax, so hear goes...

I've surfed it once with the new wax job and it was "SLICK'...but still good enough.  

Wish me luck so that I don't break my nose (again) when my hand slips off the board and hits the board.

Wednesday's Waves

It's been nice going to the beach.  With us being in Tampa last week, the "beach time" was slim!

This week the temps are beginning to drop again with a cold front coming through today/tomorrow and the swell prediction isn't that great!

50th Annual Cocoa Beach Easter Surf Fest

Get ready for the upcoming Cocoa Beach Easter Surf Fest which is April 17th-20th!  

Here's the link to the Commercial from last year's event!

Monday's Motivation

 “I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it's almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time.”  Kelly Slater

Recently many cities and states have allowed for the "exploiting" of the surf.  In fact, some cities have dredged the BEST surf breaks around only in the interest of $$$$.  As surfers, we can't just TAKE the surf sessions and not think about the environment.  

Get involved locally…even if it's only that you pickup trash along the beach on your way out of the water!  MAKE A DIFFERENCE!

Room with a View

This is what I'm talking about.  Our life in the RV has been highlighted with numerous (and I DO mean numerous) sunsets like this.  When life's priority is ENJOYING life, then you make watching sunsets with the one you love a HIGH priority.  

Since taking to this life of being a Man in RV (MiRV), I have watched more sunset with Bettina than I can count.  Each one is awesome, but most importantly it's the person I'm with that makes them so special.  

Over the years, I have missed a LOT of events (birthdays, anniversaries, holidays, etc.)...but NO longer.  Now each day is a SPECIAL DAY when I'm spending it with Bettina.

Just ONE of the great sunsets we've seen in Florida

Take some time to ENJOY LIFE along the journey.  I haven't (until now), but I'm trying to make up for lost time.  So...take the one you love out for some sunset watching today,,,you won't be disappointed :)

1st Surf Session in March 2014

Another day at the BEACH!!!!!  Just call me...HAPPY HAPPY HAPPY.  This is the life I was THINKING ABOUT when we talked about Retirement...  

Here in Central Florida, it's in the upper 70s and it's the 1st week in March.  While the rest of the United States is dealing with cold weather AND the wintery snow mix, we are spending almost every day at the beach.  

I really wasn't into going to surf on this day because the surf forecast called for North winds (heavy cross) in the morning shifting to East winds (on shore) in the afternoon.  It also said that the swell would only be waist to stomach high....boy did they get this WRONG!

The surf was a little choppy, but the swell coming in was definitely chest to head high....and it was closing out with a lot of white water.  So, when we first arrived at the beach, I decided to NOT paddle out...but the wind turned offshore and the swell continued to grow.   I finally paddled out to some enjoyable surf...nothing special today, but it was still surfing.  

Today was a day of enjoying the sand, sun and surf...OH HAPPY DAYS :)

Wednesday's Waves

Surf looks good once again.  The current forecast shows some glassy condition which I will really like.

I missed today's 2-4+ ft waves because we are out of town, but hopefully the other swell will come!!!

Here's a photo of Monday Morning's Dawn Patrol…

Surfing Video - Dane Anderson's Cold Water Surfing Paradise

Check out this surfer who doesn't let a little cold get in the way of a session!!!!

Dane Anderson's Cold Water Surfing Paradise

Monday's Motivation

“The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport.”  

Kelly Slater

When he says physical exertion, he means it.  For those who think that surfing is NOT a sport, just go and try it sometime in Overhead Surf conditions…you will quickly learn that you are no match for the OCEAN!

Wednesday's Waves

It's been a GREAT few days leading up to my Birthday (happy birthday to me, happy birthday to me...you know the rest)  

I can't believe how BLESSED I am to have such good fortune of glassy surf conditions over the past few days,  1st and 2nd Light have been firing with some quality glassy waves from 1-3+ feet.  Most of the swells have been arriving with a good 10 second interval between sets...can you say AWESOME!

This was a photo from Saturday...nice looking (but truth in advertising...this photo was at the beach closeout and I didn't ride out of it)!!!   But that's okay, because I was a WAVE MAGNET...catching all kinds of waves.

Again, I HAVE BEEN BLESSED this week with some great waves.  When you think about it...it's amazing how GOD created the oceans and waves! 

Psalms 93:4 (NIV) "Mightier than the thunder of the great waters, mightier than the breakers of the sea--the LORD on high is mighty."

BTW: with such GREAT waves last week…I'm hoping for MORE this week!

Surfing Video

Check out this surfing video...I love downloading Surf Movies (for watching later) on my PC.


This video is an Old School Surfing Movie (Free and Easy Classic Old School Surfing).


You TOO can download this (and others) by using the online converter at Savefrom.net

Monday's Motivation

“It's all about where your mind's at.”  

Kelly Slater

I completely agree with this!  If my mind is NOT on the ocean or waves, I find that my surf sessions are just BLAHHHHH.  You need to free your mind of distractions and enjoy the surf!  When you do this and paddle in, you will be "refreshed"!

Give me a WAX job!!!!

Have you ever thought you have overdone it? If not, then maybe your not trying hard enough!


When I add wax to my board...I add WAX (and lots of it) because I don't like it when my hand or foot slips off when I'm out there trying to popup or walk to the nose!


WAX...it's such a simple thing that many times we take for granted. However, when you add it to your board, it has to be the “right kind” (weather rated). So, I'd like to explain the waxing process for my BOARD!


There are three simple steps (board prep, base coat, wax) to waxing a board if you don't already have wax on it, but after it's already waxed you'd think that you'd just need to add MORE wax, get in water and SURF!!! But it doesn't seem to be that easy (at least for ME).


So let's take a look at the waxing dilemma I often find myself in...how to wax and how much to add?


Over the years, I've tried various ways of adding wax to my board. I've done the overlapping circles to build up the “bumps”. I've tried the cross lines creating a checkerboard on the board...but there is a lot of unwaxed space and surfboards are slippery when wet. Then there is back and forth motion...to just get coverage and hit some of those spots that lay a little low (like those heal impressions). But it's not just about the WAY you wax, but it's also about HOW MUCH!


I'm of the firm belief that more IS better (MOBETTER)! I also wax the ENTIRE board...no not the underside (better known as a Chinese Wax Job), but ALL of the top of the board! Yes, from tip to tail and all in between! It's because someday (hopefully someday), I'll be able to walk the length (while in the water) and Hang Ten! I know, I KNOW...it's something that's on my Bucket List and someday...I hope I get there...so I need to be READY (with a waxed board).


However, after a recent surf session, I realized that my wetsuit and the warm weather has helped my wax dissipate a little easier so I have a few blank spots. Also, I found my hands slipping during my popup (and after breaking my nose last fall when my board met my face, I don't want that to happen again) so I think a little more wax will help.


But BETTINA had a few comments and LOTS of laughs when she looked at my wax job.


SOOOO...more wax means less injury (at least for me)! So don't laugh at my board wax job...just remember that it means less time in the ER!

While it's NOT equivalent to a Brazilian Wax Job...it is A LOT of wax!!!

Wednesday's Waves

Well, it looks like another promising week of waves along the East Coast! However, I will tell you that last week the actual waves did NOT match the forecast. The winds jut seemed to be “on” a little more than expected. 

However, that did not deter me...I made it out into the lineup several times and yes....I did catch some waves.

Monday's Motivation

“Your surfing can get better on every turn, on every wave you catch.  Learn to read the ocean better.  A big part of my success has been wave knowledge.” Kelly Slater

#Surfing

#KellySlater

#Ocean

#Wave

Surf Spots - Kaisers Hawaii

Give me a Kaiser Roll!

Little did I know that Kaisers was really for "experienced" surfers?  I guess I should do a little more research BEFORE I paddle out into the lineup.  I'm a kook and sometimes I do some kook things...like paddling out to Kaisers.

However, while staying at the Hale Koa (military hotel on Waikiki Beach, it's one of the closest spots you can get to.  However, it does have a long (at least it was to me) paddle out to the lineup!  My first paddle out was a good 20 minutes...but some people will jump off the rocks and make it out a little quicker.  

I will have to confirm that the bottom is CLOSE to the surface when you are dropping in.  In fact, the waves once slammed me into the reef on my back and it HURT!  It's also very shallow...I mean shallow as in ledgy!!!  It appears that there is only a few inches of water over the reef when the wave jacks up and you are dropping in.  

Since this was my first reef break, I learned quickly to NOT FALL on the drop!  And if you do, grab on to your board to stay on top of the water...there isn't much distance from the top of the water and the reef!

It is a fun little surf spot and I'd go back.  There was a little "localism", but most of the guys were welcoming!  As a kook, I hung out along the edge/channel to catch some of the scraps.  Only a few times did I jump into the middle of the lineup.

Here's the info about the Kaisers from WannaSurf.com

SURF SPOT CHARACTERISTICS

SURF SPOT QUALITY

Wave qualityRegional Classic

ExperienceExperienced surfers

FrequencyDon't know

WAVE

TypeReef-coral

DirectionRight and left

BottomReef (coral, sharp rocks etc..)

PowerHollow, Fast, Powerful, Ledgey

Normal lengthNormal (50 to 150m)

Good day lengthLong (150 to 300 m)

TIDE, SWELL AND WIND

Good swell directionSouthWest, South, SouthEast

Good wind directionNorth, NorthWest, NorthEast

Swell sizeStarts working at Less than 1m / 3ft and holds up to 2.5m+ / 8ft+

Best tide positionAll tides

Best tide movementRising tide

MORE DETAILS

Week crowdFew surfers

Week-end crowdUltra crowded

Webcam url 

DANGERS

- Rocks
- Man-made danger (buoys etc..)
- Localism
- Sharks

Happy Valentine's Day

It's nice to have someone you LOVE be there for you for so many years. We've been married 27 years and spending time with myBettina NEVER gets old!

So on this Valentine's Day, I just want to THANK YOU for being my valentine!

BTW: I hope you noticed that I took this on the BEACH!!!!! It's my most favorite spot (2^nd Light) to spend time with YOU...Surfing, Sunning, and watching Sunrises!

Wednesday's Waves

Looks like another promising week with the forecast.  However, I'm not holding my breath since the winds can (and often do) change this good looking forecast into NOTHING worth riding.  

Also, the 1-2ft really means "ankle waves"!  As a long boarder, I guess I do the "Eddie would go", but I don't think this is what was meant by that phrase!

Surf Video - Waimea River Surfing

Take a look at a recent Surfing Video of Waimea River Surfing…

Wouldn't you like to be HERE!

Monday's Motivation

“It's like the mafia.  Once you're in – your in.  There's no getting out.”  Kelly Slater

#Surfing

#KellySlater

Surf Spots - 2nd Light

This is my FAVORITE surfing spot!   

You may ask WHY?  Why along the coast which is King of the smallest waves and King of the LARGEST SURF SHOP (Ron Jon's)?

But I do have a few good reasons!  First and foremost, this is the place where I learned to surf!  Yes, RocketBoy pushed me into my first wave at this spot in 2009!  I was hooked from day one and love to come back to the place where it all began!  So this place is special to me and always will be.  

While there are days the surf can be "better" at other locations along the Space Coast, I usually don't make the trip to any others.  I'd rather take my chances here at 2nd Light.  

Secondly, this is where Kelly Slater, 11x ASP World Champion, learned to surf.  Now I'm not saying that since this is both Kelly Slater's and my home surf spots that some day I'll be a ASP world champion, but…who knows!

Check out the site for 2nd Light.

Here's the specifics about the surf spot from WannaSurf.

SURF SPOT QUALITY

Wave qualityNormal

ExperienceAll surfers

FrequencyVery consistent (150 day/year)

WAVE

TypeBeach-break

DirectionRight and left

BottomSandy

PowerFun

Normal lengthNormal (50 to 150m)

Good day lengthLong (150 to 300 m)

TIDE, SWELL AND WIND

Good swell directionSouthEast, East, NorthEast

Good wind directionWest, SouthWest

Swell sizeStarts working at Less than 1m / 3ft and holds up to 2.5m+ / 8ft+

Best tide positionAll tides

Best tide movementRising and falling tides

MORE DETAILS

Week crowdFew surfers

Week-end crowdCrowded

Webcam urlhttp://www.2ndlight.com 

DANGERS

- Sharks

Wednesday's Waves

The forecast for the next week is…so so!

Looks like I have a few days that I will be able to catch some waves :)

Mahalo \m/

If you want to check out the latest (current swell info in Cocoa Beach), head to SwellInfo

Sunday's Surfing Session reported on Tuesday

Yes, I know…it's taking me 3 days to post my most recent surfing session, but I have good reasons!

You see…

1st off - I don't have Internet and have to travel to various locations to make my post.  While this is really an excuse, it has some merit!

2nd off - I'm TIRED from my most recent surf session!  You see, I surfed for about 4 hours on Sunday :)  Not that the surf was ALL that GOOD, but it was good enough for ME!  So I stayed out in the lineup until my arms were spaghetti and I could barely paddle in!  I thought I had learned from the last time I surfed until I couldn't paddle any longer (and then my leash broke and I had to swim to shore)!   But it was a good day of surfing and the weather was AWESOME (no wind and great sunshine)!

3rd off (and part of the 2nd off) - my arms are exhausted!  Yes, I am finding it hard to lift my arms because my triceps are SCREAMING!  Therefore, I didn't want to have to type!

Now that I have all of the excuses out of the way from my latest surf session, let me tell you that I had a great time!  In fact, even though I'm a kook surfer, I love just paddling into some small surf and riding it for as long as a I can.

A while back, a friend of mine asked me about surfing (in particular my surfing).  One of the questions was, 'how long do you ride a wave', which got me to thinking…hmmmm!   So I started paying a little more attention to my wave time and have found out that on the average I'm riding about 10 seconds!  To most of you that doesn't sound like a lot, but for a kook it IS!  

Some days are better than others with 15-20 second rides (if I can catch the 2nd break/inside break and ride it to shore, I might even get a 25-30 second ride).  But many times, it's a 5-6 second ride!  While this isn't long in the large scheme of things, I have decided (a long time ago) that just paddling out, no matter how many waves I catch or how long the ride, it's worth it to be in the surf!  All I want to do when I go surfing is…Catch ONE Good Wave!

So what's your excuse for not paddling out?

Conditions on Sunday…not good, but not bad!

Monday's Motivation

"Wiping out is an under appreciated skill.”  Larid Hamilton

Wednesday's Waves -- Surfing (SUP) Session

After being sick for the past week, I finally found a good day to head to the beach.  With the weather at almost 80 degrees and the winds projected to be light, I figured I had a small window to paddle out.  

When we arrived (yes I took Bettina with me), I found that it was flat with a few rollers coming in at knee height about every 3-5 minutes.  So I quickly took the SUP out (vs the longboard) and didn't even put on the wetsuit (yes, the water temp is running a little brisk at 63 degrees and Swellinfo.com wetsuit guide recommends a 3/2 full suit).

However, since I was SUPing and not SURFING, I thought I won't fall in the water, but that was a mistake.  

After paddling out, the conditions got better for a short while and I was watching waves on the SUP and riding them to shore.  While NOT large waves, there were FUN waves!  And I only got wet a few times…boy howdy those board shorts were NOT enough to stay warm, but it was FUN!

BTW:  The forecast for the next week doesn't look promising :(  The only good day is projected to be Friday morning with some glassy conditions in the morning with swells at the 3-4+ ft level.  Looks like side shore and on shore winds will make it a little choppy for the foreseeable future.  Let's hope Friday (and potentially Saturday) stays as projected.

Mondays' Motivation

“The biggest sin in the world would be if I lost my love for the ocean.”  Laird Hamilton

Surfing Buddies - Mon General

I know that most of us think we are a General at heart, but when it really comes down to it, we are really all just a bunch of foot soldiers. This goes for whether we are on dry land or in the water!

But this week's surfing buddy is both...a General in REAL life and in the lineup!

You see, I came to know (and love) this guy when he became my boss in the spring of 2010. He's a great guy, was a great boss and is someone I consider a friend.

Mon General is a surfing kook like me and this makes surfing with him a load of fun :) But better than that, he even got his son and daughter into surfing...what a leader!

We had a few surf sessions together back in the day, but the most memorable was the morning we all switched boards. It was a cold day in central Florida, but everyone was enjoying the surf, fellowship and friendship!

Mon General may be a true, no kidding, real life General, but when he's in the lineup he's just one if the bras.

Mahalo Mon General for being a true, no kidding, real life surfing buddy!

Wednesday's Waves

The temperature has dropped along the Space Coast with temps hitting the 30's and a windchill taking it even colder!

However, I have plans to hit the surf on Saturday since it is projected to be 3+ feet!  But that can all change...since Thursday was projected to be the day earlier in the week.

Check out the Cocoa Beach surf at:  http://www.swellinfo.com/surf-forecast/cocoa-beach-florida

Happy wave hunting \m/

Monday's Motivation

“Surfing's one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what's behind.”  Laird Hamilton

#Surfing
#LairdHamilton

Surfing Buddies - Q

Well, it can be said that "Q" is one of those type of surfing buddies who really makes an impact on you.

Q is one of those guys who can talk you into skipping out of work to go catch a few waves…even if it is going to get you into trouble.  

Over the years, I've only surfed with Q a few times, but each time was very memorable.  Whether it was when the air was 32 degrees, the wind blowing at 20mph and the water was a miserable 58 degrees!  He was the guy who would show up and loan you some booties to keep you warm.  

Q is also a Shortboarder which makes him someone I truly admire as a surfer. But he's NOT just a short boarder, but he can mix it up just a easily on a longboard or fun board. 

One of my most fond memories is when he brought his brother Paul along and they were surfing handmade wooden surfboards that Paul designed and handcrafted in his garage.  The boards were masterpieces that would add life to any room as a wall hanger, but these two were shredding the East Coast waves on these logs…  It was a thing of beauty that I will NEVER Forget!

Mahalo Q…you make my surfing sessions the BEST!  I hope we have many more in the days and years to come!

BTW:  Thanks for keeping my stoke during the year long deployment with getting me a subscription to Surfers Journal which is a real surfer's magazine and not just a bunch of photos of guys riding tubes and girls in bikinis.

Surfing…the WA(y)VE of Life

When I think of LIFE, it makes me think about the comparison to SURFING!  Yeah, I know, I have surfing on the brain!!!! 

Surf and LIFE are synonymous.  In LIFE, we are tossed by the waves.  Like many days in the surf...sometimes the surf is coming from various directions and at different intervals.  These waves can really toss you around.  But it's how you paddle and position yourself during this time which will determine if you will survive and/or succeed.

Other times, you have to deal with a little Rip Current, which will pull you out and away from your intended goals.  But you must remain "calm" and not struggle against the forces that are pulling your away from your goal.

While all of these waves sound like a lot of fun, there are other times (like the 1st few weeks we have been in Destin) where the waves are all flat...non-existent.  It is during these times in life (when nothing seems to be happening) that you must "stay the course"!  Don't give up for some day, soon albeit, you be back in the middle of a good swell.

Surfing has kept me ALIVE!  There have been many times in the last 5 years that I just didn't get...LIFE.  I didn't understand what was going on, why LIFE was the way it was, or I just needed something to look forward to...and SURFing was the ANSWER.

While deployed in "an undisclosed location in Southwest Asia"  (AKA Al Udeid, Qatar), I found myself working a LOT of hours (and I mean A LOT of HOURS--normally 20+ hours a day for 12 months straight).  I had to deal with the normal stressors of life (being away from the family, wondering what was Next in LIFE, trying to be a good Airman, keeping my bosses butt out of trouble, dealing a lot of ZEROs who just didn't get it, flying missions into hostile territory and wondering could I manage?).  During this time, I found SURFING and some great friendships (read this as MarkM, CindyD and KatieG).  However, it was Milam who was my solid friend and allowed me to talk 'SURF' at times when I needed to decompress.  

I can remember going to the JAGs office and just hang out and talk Hawaii surfing.  He too was a surfer (true to the heart) and had maps of the surf spots around Oahu.  I dreamed of surfing spots in Hawaii and we talked about surf (LIFE)!  

It may be small and a short ride, but it is AWESOME!!!

Every day I'm in the water, I again feel alive.  Even though I SUCK as a surfer, I go out and try to catch waves.  Most rides are less than 5 seconds...yeah, not very long for a LOT of work.  However, during those 5 seconds...I am the World's Best Surfer (at least to myself) and I AM SUCCESSFUL!

The MEN in Grey Suits

Last night on the local news, there was a story about the tracking of a Great White Shark along the Florida Coast.  In fact, the story mentioned that the 2,200 lb shark was being tracked (via some GPS tracking system) and was located along the Cape Canaveral Seashore -- WOW, now that's close to Cocoa Beach!!!

So when is the sighting of a shark TOO close to say you can't paddle out into the lineup?

Today, I found myself contemplating this very issue!   Do I paddle out (since the shark was 10-15 miles north of here) OR do I sit on the shore and watch some nice waves and good surf pass me by especially since the weather is projected to turn cold over the next 48 hours!

SO.....I decided the risk outweighed the concern for the sharks in the water.  Anyway, there are always sharks in the water around Cocoa Beach...just NOT a Great White Shark!  BUT...I will tell you the thought of the shark did cross my mind a few times while I was out there waiting for the next wave.

Enjoy your surf and forget that humans are no longer at the TOP of the food chain in the ocean!

Check put the local news stories --

FoxNewsOrlando

MyNews13

Monday's Motivation

“Out of water, I am nothing.”  Duke Kahanamoku

When we find ourselves on the shore watching the surf, we see that we too are as small as the sand crystal.  

#Duke
#Surf
#Surfing
#Dahanamoku

Surfing Buddies - TheJudge

Let me say this first…without surfing buddies, surfing would be NO FUN!  

While most surfing buddies are found in the line up or are friends that you GO surfing with, this surfing buddy came about a very different path!  In fact, we have NEVER surfed together…  however, we have talked surf and shared a lot of our surfing experiences.

TheJudge is one COOL guy who came along in my life when I needed a friend!  See I was a LONNNNNNNNG way away from the family on a military deployment for 12 months…yes, 12 months away from the ones you love is a LONGGGGGGGGGG time!

However, when I deployed in the summer of 2010, I wasn't sure what would keep me sane, but I figured it would be something to do with surfing (even if I wasn't going to catch any waves in the Persian Gulf.  It was during this deployment I met and become LIFE LONG friends with TheJudge!  See he too was deployed for 12 months and he was a SURFER!

During those long days of work when I needed a break, I'd head over to TheJudge's office for some surf talk.  I can remember the first time I walked into his office and he had maps posted on his wall of ALL the Hawaiian Island surf spots.  This is when I knew I had a "real surfer" in my presence.  It turns out he had surfed Hawaii in the past and this was a reminder of the "good ole days".  

For me, these surf spots were "dreams of the future" because I too wanted to surf some Hawaiian waves, which I did during my mid-tour break (15 days in Hawaii surfing Kaisers almost every day).

Additionally, TheJudge knew I would be "dry" from some time and to help me stay "stoked", he cut me a CD of all of his Jack Johnson tracks.  This was music to my ears.

To TheJudge…THANKS for keeping me stoked for the 12 months in the war!  I couldn't have made it through many days if you hadn't been there to keep my mind off of the daily grind with a little surf talk!  Friends FOREVER!!!! and I can't wait until we someday get to paddle out into the lineup TOGETHER!

TheJudge with his bride in Morocco…I'm sure he was checking out the surf