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| Lee surfing MY Board!!! |
However, my surfing experience began with the meeting (and begging) to learn to surf from RocketBoy! It was in the summer of 2009 when I had pleaded with many (too many) surfers in the area to teach me how to surf. Now I know that a 43 year old asking some young groms to teach him to surf must have come off – let's say “crazy”!
When I moved to the Space Coast in October 2008, I was determined to learn how to surf. While I first thought I was “cool enough” to learn to ride a short board, little did I know then that I was meant for the log.
So after begging and pleading with every one I encountered who know ANYTHING about surfing, I was beginning to think I would never get the opportunity to “learn”! Yeah, I know...all it takes to surf is you, a board and the waves. I had 2 of them (me and the waves), but I didn't have a board. And even though there are many board shops around the A1A, I just wasn't sure WHAT I was doing or how to get started. So....I waited for someone to “show me the basics”. This is when I met RocketBoy...in the summer of 2009.
Let me recount the sequence of events regarding the friendship and learning to surf because these go hand in hand!
It was a summer Saturday afternoon when I was shopping at BB&B (Bed Bath and Beyond) and I ran into RocketBoy with his family shopping there as well. See I work with RocketBoy and we had met...but I don't remember asking (begging) him to teach me to surf. See, RocketBoy was an experienced surfer from the Left Coast. He had been surfing for some time (like 8 or 9 years at this time). Also, he had surfed some cool spots along the Cali coast and also in the mecca of surfing (Hawaii). To say it simply, I saw RocketBoy as a surfing expert!
Well, as we left the store, the summer rain had commenced and we (both me and RocketBoy) were stuck outside the store waiting for the rain to let up. He came over and asked what I was doing tomorrow morning and of course I didn't have a thing going on. He then said “I'll see you at 8am tomorrow to go surfing.” Boy was I one happy :) guy. I was finally getting the chance to learn to surf.
I couldn't sleep al night and began looking up “how to surf” on the Internet, just so I didn't look like an idiot the next morning. I also worked on the popup endlessly throughout the evening.
The next morning I was like a kid at Christmas...excited about the new experience I was about to have. I was up early and kept looking out the window down towards RocketBoys house to see if he was outside. I didn't want to appear too eager and didn't want to go sit at the curb waiting for him to “come out and play.” So I watched and waited and waited and waited until I saw his car back out of the garage.
It was play time and I was ready!
We headed to 2nd Light and he walked me through the basics with a little shore surfing. I had to lay on the board on the beach and act like I was paddling out and then popup when he said. We did this for a little while he explained a few basic safety rules.
Safety Rule #1 – Never allow your body to be between the board and the shore.
Safety Rule #2 – Respect the wave.
Safety Rule #3 – Watch out for the other surfers...no need in killing someone else with your board.
Safety Rule #4 – Make sure your leash is attached.
Safety Rule #5 – Enjoy yourself
After the beach lesson, we headed out into the surf which was less than knee height. RocketBoys plan was to push me into some waves and yell when I was to popup.
As RocketBoy recalls, he thought that this day would be a “waisted surfing day” for him since few people get up the first time out. Well, I was MORE THAN READY to learn and on the first wave he pushed me into, I jumped up and rode the wave all the way to the shore. We did this about 4 more times before RocketBoy had had enough. He was ready to surf so he had me paddle the board and we then headed out to catch some real waves further out. I have to admit that RocketBoy had been gracious enough to allow me to use his Cadillac Surfboard (a Robert August What I Ride 10'). With this wave riding machine, it was no wonder I was able to learn to surf on the first outing.
Now I must caveat that when I say learned to surf on the first outing, I must clarify that what I really mean is that I made some semblance of surfing, but I still had a LONG way to go. Even to this day, I would call myself a kook.
I then waited until the next weekend to get to go out again with RocketBoy. This time he allowed me to use his backup board a 9' board that was very different than the Robert August board. This day I spent MOST of the morning trying to catch waves. I did catch a few, but they were few and far between. I think I spent most of my time paddling to catch waves instead of riding waves...but I was hooked. I realized that I LOVE SURFING and immediately after getting home, I headed to my local surf shop to buy a board. Why I didn't have RocketBoy come with me I don't know! However, my 1st board is still my only board (I have owned a 6'8” 7S Dart for a week and a 9'6” thruster when in Hawaii and my SUP) and it was served me well! I'm ready to get a new stick, but can't make up my mind....a fish, a mini-mal, another log or a fun board.
Since learning to surf, I have caught many waves and surfed many days. However, NO surf day has ever matched to the day RocketBoy taught this kook how to surf. I still ride that stoke every time I go surfing.
Both RocketBoy and myself left the Space Coast because of our careers. He has moved on to bigger and better things while I have taken a life of a little slower pace where I am pursuing a life of RVing and looking for surf.
RocketBoy has become one of my closest friends. It's not because he taught me to surf (but I am forever grateful for him for taking the time to teach this old dog a new trick – surfing). I have been one lucky guy to get to know RocketBoy! It is good to call him my FRIEND!
RocketBoy...THANK YOU! You are truly the best surfing buddy I have.
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| Lee & Larry - Dec 2013 |
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