Since I've made a life change over the last year, I now have time to SURF! And since I REALLY like to SURF (can't take my mind off of it), I have decided to hopefully run a BLOG regarding my Surf Life over the next year. Since some of the travels will go “inland”, some of my surfing escapades will be on my SUP (Stand Up Paddleboard). However, I consider SUPing to be flatwater surfing...so it counts. I'm a LONGBOARDER all the way. I like to have a high wave count and riding a LOG allows me to catch many more waves. Besides, I'm a lazy surfer who doesn't like to expend too much effort on catching a wave...
For those who have watch “Step Into Liquid” surfing documentary, you may remember the guy who featured who had surfed every day for 13 years straight, this will NOT be me. I WILL surf – more than some and not as much as others – but I will surf.
Finally, to start off this blog, I guess I need to tell you a little about me and the plan. Remember, the plan is very fluid (do you like that pun to water?). We have plans, but they are always open for changes. Life happens and life might make changes over the course of the next few years.
So, you may be asking yourself “Who is this KOOK?” and you would be correct! If you saw me in the water, you'd say watch out for that kook. I am a 47 year old who learned to surf in 2009. Yeah, I know that's a little late in life, but...I always wanted to learn to surf, but I never lived near the ocean and therefore never had the opportunity to learn. But after my first day on a board, I was hooked! My buddy (Rocket Boy), pushed me into a few waves and then took me out into the deep. While I didn't catch many waves, it did catch some. After surf session #2 the next week, I purchased my own board and can say that the rest is history.
If you run into me, expect the discussion to somehow get to surfing. I love to hear about others surf adventures.
I'm stoked as I take on this challenge of bloggin about Surfing. However, if you are more interested in my “other life”, take a look at my other blog on RV Living at: Man in RV
Mahalo and happy surfing \m/
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