Surf and LIFE are synonymous. In LIFE, we are tossed by the waves. Like many days in the surf...sometimes the surf is coming from various directions and at different intervals. These waves can really toss you around. But it's how you paddle and position yourself during this time which will determine if you will survive and/or succeed.
Other times, you have to deal with a little Rip Current, which will pull you out and away from your intended goals. But you must remain "calm" and not struggle against the forces that are pulling your away from your goal.
While all of these waves sound like a lot of fun, there are other times (like the 1st few weeks we have been in Destin) where the waves are all flat...non-existent. It is during these times in life (when nothing seems to be happening) that you must "stay the course"! Don't give up for some day, soon albeit, you be back in the middle of a good swell.
Surfing has kept me ALIVE! There have been many times in the last 5 years that I just didn't get...LIFE. I didn't understand what was going on, why LIFE was the way it was, or I just needed something to look forward to...and SURFing was the ANSWER.
While deployed in "an undisclosed location in Southwest Asia" (AKA Al Udeid, Qatar), I found myself working a LOT of hours (and I mean A LOT of HOURS--normally 20+ hours a day for 12 months straight). I had to deal with the normal stressors of life (being away from the family, wondering what was Next in LIFE, trying to be a good Airman, keeping my bosses butt out of trouble, dealing a lot of ZEROs who just didn't get it, flying missions into hostile territory and wondering could I manage?). During this time, I found SURFING and some great friendships (read this as MarkM, CindyD and KatieG). However, it was Milam who was my solid friend and allowed me to talk 'SURF' at times when I needed to decompress.
I can remember going to the JAGs office and just hang out and talk Hawaii surfing. He too was a surfer (true to the heart) and had maps of the surf spots around Oahu. I dreamed of surfing spots in Hawaii and we talked about surf (LIFE)!
It may be small and a short ride, but it is AWESOME!!! |
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