1st Surf Session 2014

Yesterday was a GREAT day, since it was my first session in the New Year.  The conditions left a little to be desired as a Longboarder because it was like I was in a "washing machine" for about 20 minutes as I paddled out to catch some waves.

During the paddle out, I considered turning around and just coming back in!  It was a little too large for my type of surfing, but I needed to get wet, so out I paddled. 

After finally making it into the lineup, I spent a lot of time dodging the various swells coming...it seemed like I just couldn't find the "right spot".  However, I did catch a few and had several more wipeouts!

After the morning session, I decided to take the spouse to the beach and to see about another session.  I once again found myself...about ready to die for a surf session...just too much white water and crashing waves for me to paddle out.  Also, my arms were tired from the morning session.  However, I finally made it out into the line up, but this time...NO waves!  

After about 90 minutes "trying" to catch a wave or two, I finally had my leash snap on a wipeout!  Yikes...I wasn't planning to swim into to shore the 400meters or so after two long and tiring surf sessions.  

After trying to make it to my board which was quickly pushed to shore from the churn, I found myself "PRAYING REAL HARD" to make it to shore. 

I just wasn't my time to drown!!!!  I made it to shore, picked up the board and headed to the wife where she asks me "did your leash break?"  With my answer "why yes it did!"

I was DONE for the day!  To much paddling (out through the rough swell and back to shore withOUT my board)!  

I think I learned something today...I might be a Knee to Waist high swell surfer in comparison to the Big Swells!