Sunday's Surfing Session reported on Tuesday

Yes, I know…it's taking me 3 days to post my most recent surfing session, but I have good reasons!

You see…

1st off - I don't have Internet and have to travel to various locations to make my post.  While this is really an excuse, it has some merit!

2nd off - I'm TIRED from my most recent surf session!  You see, I surfed for about 4 hours on Sunday :)  Not that the surf was ALL that GOOD, but it was good enough for ME!  So I stayed out in the lineup until my arms were spaghetti and I could barely paddle in!  I thought I had learned from the last time I surfed until I couldn't paddle any longer (and then my leash broke and I had to swim to shore)!   But it was a good day of surfing and the weather was AWESOME (no wind and great sunshine)!

3rd off (and part of the 2nd off) - my arms are exhausted!  Yes, I am finding it hard to lift my arms because my triceps are SCREAMING!  Therefore, I didn't want to have to type!

Now that I have all of the excuses out of the way from my latest surf session, let me tell you that I had a great time!  In fact, even though I'm a kook surfer, I love just paddling into some small surf and riding it for as long as a I can.

A while back, a friend of mine asked me about surfing (in particular my surfing).  One of the questions was, 'how long do you ride a wave', which got me to thinking…hmmmm!   So I started paying a little more attention to my wave time and have found out that on the average I'm riding about 10 seconds!  To most of you that doesn't sound like a lot, but for a kook it IS!  

Some days are better than others with 15-20 second rides (if I can catch the 2nd break/inside break and ride it to shore, I might even get a 25-30 second ride).  But many times, it's a 5-6 second ride!  While this isn't long in the large scheme of things, I have decided (a long time ago) that just paddling out, no matter how many waves I catch or how long the ride, it's worth it to be in the surf!  All I want to do when I go surfing is…Catch ONE Good Wave!

So what's your excuse for not paddling out?

Conditions on Sunday…not good, but not bad!