Wednesday's Waves

It's been a GREAT few days leading up to my Birthday (happy birthday to me, happy birthday to me...you know the rest)  

I can't believe how BLESSED I am to have such good fortune of glassy surf conditions over the past few days,  1st and 2nd Light have been firing with some quality glassy waves from 1-3+ feet.  Most of the swells have been arriving with a good 10 second interval between sets...can you say AWESOME!

This was a photo from Saturday...nice looking (but truth in advertising...this photo was at the beach closeout and I didn't ride out of it)!!!   But that's okay, because I was a WAVE MAGNET...catching all kinds of waves.

Again, I HAVE BEEN BLESSED this week with some great waves.  When you think about it...it's amazing how GOD created the oceans and waves! 

Psalms 93:4 (NIV) "Mightier than the thunder of the great waters, mightier than the breakers of the sea--the LORD on high is mighty."

BTW: with such GREAT waves last week…I'm hoping for MORE this week!

Surfing Video

Check out this surfing video...I love downloading Surf Movies (for watching later) on my PC.


This video is an Old School Surfing Movie (Free and Easy Classic Old School Surfing).


You TOO can download this (and others) by using the online converter at Savefrom.net

Monday's Motivation

“It's all about where your mind's at.”  

Kelly Slater

I completely agree with this!  If my mind is NOT on the ocean or waves, I find that my surf sessions are just BLAHHHHH.  You need to free your mind of distractions and enjoy the surf!  When you do this and paddle in, you will be "refreshed"!

Give me a WAX job!!!!

Have you ever thought you have overdone it? If not, then maybe your not trying hard enough!


When I add wax to my board...I add WAX (and lots of it) because I don't like it when my hand or foot slips off when I'm out there trying to popup or walk to the nose!


WAX...it's such a simple thing that many times we take for granted. However, when you add it to your board, it has to be the “right kind” (weather rated). So, I'd like to explain the waxing process for my BOARD!


There are three simple steps (board prep, base coat, wax) to waxing a board if you don't already have wax on it, but after it's already waxed you'd think that you'd just need to add MORE wax, get in water and SURF!!! But it doesn't seem to be that easy (at least for ME).


So let's take a look at the waxing dilemma I often find myself in...how to wax and how much to add?


Over the years, I've tried various ways of adding wax to my board. I've done the overlapping circles to build up the “bumps”. I've tried the cross lines creating a checkerboard on the board...but there is a lot of unwaxed space and surfboards are slippery when wet. Then there is back and forth motion...to just get coverage and hit some of those spots that lay a little low (like those heal impressions). But it's not just about the WAY you wax, but it's also about HOW MUCH!


I'm of the firm belief that more IS better (MOBETTER)! I also wax the ENTIRE board...no not the underside (better known as a Chinese Wax Job), but ALL of the top of the board! Yes, from tip to tail and all in between! It's because someday (hopefully someday), I'll be able to walk the length (while in the water) and Hang Ten! I know, I KNOW...it's something that's on my Bucket List and someday...I hope I get there...so I need to be READY (with a waxed board).


However, after a recent surf session, I realized that my wetsuit and the warm weather has helped my wax dissipate a little easier so I have a few blank spots. Also, I found my hands slipping during my popup (and after breaking my nose last fall when my board met my face, I don't want that to happen again) so I think a little more wax will help.


But BETTINA had a few comments and LOTS of laughs when she looked at my wax job.


SOOOO...more wax means less injury (at least for me)! So don't laugh at my board wax job...just remember that it means less time in the ER!

While it's NOT equivalent to a Brazilian Wax Job...it is A LOT of wax!!!

Wednesday's Waves

Well, it looks like another promising week of waves along the East Coast! However, I will tell you that last week the actual waves did NOT match the forecast. The winds jut seemed to be “on” a little more than expected. 

However, that did not deter me...I made it out into the lineup several times and yes....I did catch some waves.

Monday's Motivation

“Your surfing can get better on every turn, on every wave you catch.  Learn to read the ocean better.  A big part of my success has been wave knowledge.” Kelly Slater

#Surfing

#KellySlater

#Ocean

#Wave

Surf Spots - Kaisers Hawaii

Give me a Kaiser Roll!

Little did I know that Kaisers was really for "experienced" surfers?  I guess I should do a little more research BEFORE I paddle out into the lineup.  I'm a kook and sometimes I do some kook things...like paddling out to Kaisers.

However, while staying at the Hale Koa (military hotel on Waikiki Beach, it's one of the closest spots you can get to.  However, it does have a long (at least it was to me) paddle out to the lineup!  My first paddle out was a good 20 minutes...but some people will jump off the rocks and make it out a little quicker.  

I will have to confirm that the bottom is CLOSE to the surface when you are dropping in.  In fact, the waves once slammed me into the reef on my back and it HURT!  It's also very shallow...I mean shallow as in ledgy!!!  It appears that there is only a few inches of water over the reef when the wave jacks up and you are dropping in.  

Since this was my first reef break, I learned quickly to NOT FALL on the drop!  And if you do, grab on to your board to stay on top of the water...there isn't much distance from the top of the water and the reef!

It is a fun little surf spot and I'd go back.  There was a little "localism", but most of the guys were welcoming!  As a kook, I hung out along the edge/channel to catch some of the scraps.  Only a few times did I jump into the middle of the lineup.

Here's the info about the Kaisers from WannaSurf.com

SURF SPOT CHARACTERISTICS

SURF SPOT QUALITY

Wave qualityRegional Classic

ExperienceExperienced surfers

FrequencyDon't know

WAVE

TypeReef-coral

DirectionRight and left

BottomReef (coral, sharp rocks etc..)

PowerHollow, Fast, Powerful, Ledgey

Normal lengthNormal (50 to 150m)

Good day lengthLong (150 to 300 m)

TIDE, SWELL AND WIND

Good swell directionSouthWest, South, SouthEast

Good wind directionNorth, NorthWest, NorthEast

Swell sizeStarts working at Less than 1m / 3ft and holds up to 2.5m+ / 8ft+

Best tide positionAll tides

Best tide movementRising tide

MORE DETAILS

Week crowdFew surfers

Week-end crowdUltra crowded

Webcam url 

DANGERS

- Rocks
- Man-made danger (buoys etc..)
- Localism
- Sharks

Happy Valentine's Day

It's nice to have someone you LOVE be there for you for so many years. We've been married 27 years and spending time with myBettina NEVER gets old!

So on this Valentine's Day, I just want to THANK YOU for being my valentine!

BTW: I hope you noticed that I took this on the BEACH!!!!! It's my most favorite spot (2^nd Light) to spend time with YOU...Surfing, Sunning, and watching Sunrises!

Wednesday's Waves

Looks like another promising week with the forecast.  However, I'm not holding my breath since the winds can (and often do) change this good looking forecast into NOTHING worth riding.  

Also, the 1-2ft really means "ankle waves"!  As a long boarder, I guess I do the "Eddie would go", but I don't think this is what was meant by that phrase!

Surf Video - Waimea River Surfing

Take a look at a recent Surfing Video of Waimea River Surfing…

Wouldn't you like to be HERE!

Monday's Motivation

“It's like the mafia.  Once you're in – your in.  There's no getting out.”  Kelly Slater

#Surfing

#KellySlater

Surf Spots - 2nd Light

This is my FAVORITE surfing spot!   

You may ask WHY?  Why along the coast which is King of the smallest waves and King of the LARGEST SURF SHOP (Ron Jon's)?

But I do have a few good reasons!  First and foremost, this is the place where I learned to surf!  Yes, RocketBoy pushed me into my first wave at this spot in 2009!  I was hooked from day one and love to come back to the place where it all began!  So this place is special to me and always will be.  

While there are days the surf can be "better" at other locations along the Space Coast, I usually don't make the trip to any others.  I'd rather take my chances here at 2nd Light.  

Secondly, this is where Kelly Slater, 11x ASP World Champion, learned to surf.  Now I'm not saying that since this is both Kelly Slater's and my home surf spots that some day I'll be a ASP world champion, but…who knows!

Check out the site for 2nd Light.

Here's the specifics about the surf spot from WannaSurf.

SURF SPOT QUALITY

Wave qualityNormal

ExperienceAll surfers

FrequencyVery consistent (150 day/year)

WAVE

TypeBeach-break

DirectionRight and left

BottomSandy

PowerFun

Normal lengthNormal (50 to 150m)

Good day lengthLong (150 to 300 m)

TIDE, SWELL AND WIND

Good swell directionSouthEast, East, NorthEast

Good wind directionWest, SouthWest

Swell sizeStarts working at Less than 1m / 3ft and holds up to 2.5m+ / 8ft+

Best tide positionAll tides

Best tide movementRising and falling tides

MORE DETAILS

Week crowdFew surfers

Week-end crowdCrowded

Webcam urlhttp://www.2ndlight.com 

DANGERS

- Sharks

Wednesday's Waves

The forecast for the next week is…so so!

Looks like I have a few days that I will be able to catch some waves :)

Mahalo \m/

If you want to check out the latest (current swell info in Cocoa Beach), head to SwellInfo

Sunday's Surfing Session reported on Tuesday

Yes, I know…it's taking me 3 days to post my most recent surfing session, but I have good reasons!

You see…

1st off - I don't have Internet and have to travel to various locations to make my post.  While this is really an excuse, it has some merit!

2nd off - I'm TIRED from my most recent surf session!  You see, I surfed for about 4 hours on Sunday :)  Not that the surf was ALL that GOOD, but it was good enough for ME!  So I stayed out in the lineup until my arms were spaghetti and I could barely paddle in!  I thought I had learned from the last time I surfed until I couldn't paddle any longer (and then my leash broke and I had to swim to shore)!   But it was a good day of surfing and the weather was AWESOME (no wind and great sunshine)!

3rd off (and part of the 2nd off) - my arms are exhausted!  Yes, I am finding it hard to lift my arms because my triceps are SCREAMING!  Therefore, I didn't want to have to type!

Now that I have all of the excuses out of the way from my latest surf session, let me tell you that I had a great time!  In fact, even though I'm a kook surfer, I love just paddling into some small surf and riding it for as long as a I can.

A while back, a friend of mine asked me about surfing (in particular my surfing).  One of the questions was, 'how long do you ride a wave', which got me to thinking…hmmmm!   So I started paying a little more attention to my wave time and have found out that on the average I'm riding about 10 seconds!  To most of you that doesn't sound like a lot, but for a kook it IS!  

Some days are better than others with 15-20 second rides (if I can catch the 2nd break/inside break and ride it to shore, I might even get a 25-30 second ride).  But many times, it's a 5-6 second ride!  While this isn't long in the large scheme of things, I have decided (a long time ago) that just paddling out, no matter how many waves I catch or how long the ride, it's worth it to be in the surf!  All I want to do when I go surfing is…Catch ONE Good Wave!

So what's your excuse for not paddling out?

Conditions on Sunday…not good, but not bad!

Monday's Motivation

"Wiping out is an under appreciated skill.”  Larid Hamilton